How to make the perfect chocolate roulade - recipe | Felicity Cloake's How to make the perfect...

It's the fudgy crumb, crackly casing and luxuriant cream centre that elevate this French showstopper above the workaday swiss roll I try to embark on these columns with an open mind: to engage the spirit of strict scientific neutrality in pursuit of culinary perfection. Yet, this week, as I rolled roulade after roulade, whipped cream softly spilling on to the counter in front of me, I realised that I was not only striving towards perfection, but attempting to recreate a very specific, decades-ol...